Step beyond the tourist trail through Japan's untamed beauty: TOHOKU GUIDE

Tohoku whispers promises of ancient forests, timeless onsen towns, and a rugged coastline that appears to stretch towards infinity. Escape the crowds and discover a different side of Japan - a place where nature, tradition, and spirituality intertwine. Hike through pristine landscapes, soak in steaming hot springs, and explore villages where time seems to stand still. This northern gem awaits your discovery.

Our adventure begins in Fukushima Prefecture, in the cosy embrace of Tsuchiyu Onsen. Two towering wooden kokeshi dolls stand welcoming visitors, their vibrant hues contrasting sharply with the rising steam. Here, you will find a wide range of hot springs, from rustic rotenburo (outdoor baths) to modern spa facilities.

As you soothe your soul in Tsuchiyu, you’ll notice it's also a haven for artisans. Here, you'll find workshops where skilled hands have crafted kokeshi dolls since the Edo-era, each doll a unique expression of the maker's spirit. These wooden figures, with their seemingly simple lines and vivid colours, were originally children’s dolls for pretend play. Overtime, they’ve evolved into cherished collectibles, representing a traditional craft that conveys the warmth of wood. Visit a local producer to experience the artistry of kokeshi making, and perhaps even try your hand at painting your own at the Yumebutai Visitors Center.

Next, we venture to Yamagata Prefecture to discover Risshakuji, more commonly known as Yamadera, or "Mountain Temple". Prepare to embark on a pilgrimage, climbing 1,015 stone steps through a tranquil forest. While it can be quite a climb, the path is well-maintained with stone steps and railings, making it manageable for people of most fitness levels with appropriate rest.

Reaching the summit, you'll be greeted by a panoramic vista that will take your breath away. Rice paddies shimmer in the valley below, while the distant peaks of the Dewa Sanzan mountains pierce the clouds. This is a place of profound tranquillity, where you can connect with the natural world and find a sense of inner peace.

After your descent, take a moment to wander through the Yamadera Basho Memorial Museum dedicated to Matsuo Basho, the master of haiku poetry. His haikus, inspired by the beauty of Tohoku, capture the essence of this land in just a few evocative lines.

And when creative inspiration has piqued your appetite, head to Yamagata City and savour a bowl of Imoni, a hearty stew with tender beef, konjac, and seasonal local vegetables such as daikon radish, carrots, and green onions that's been warming the hearts and bellies of locals for centuries.

From the mountains, we descend to the coast, to the bustling port city of Shiogama in Miyagi Prefecture. Stepping into the Shiogama Fish Park (also known as Shiogama Fish Market), the air buzzes with energy as fishermen unload their daily hauls and vendors expertly fillet and display their wares. Tuna, flounder, and oysters are all prized delicacies, and renowned staples of Shiogama's coastal cuisine.

This town is a sushi lover's paradise, boasting one of the highest numbers of sushi restaurants per capita in the country. Pull up a seat at a counter and watch as the chef transforms fresh catches into works of edible art.

And don't forget to pair your meal with a glass of local sake. Founded in 1724, Urakasumi Sake Brewery has been awarded countless accolades recognising its sake excellence.

But Shiogama is more than a culinary destination. Shiogama Shrine, believed to date back to before the Nara period (710–794), is revered as one of the region's most important Shinto sanctuaries. Historically, it’s believed to have served as a protector of fishermen and safe childbirths, embodying the community's deep connection to the sea. Its main buildings showcase the striking "nagare-zukuri" style, featuring a wave-like roof. Vibrant lacquerwork, intricate carvings, and detailed metalwork, standing as a testament to the country's enduring spiritual and artistic traditions.

For a truly immersive experience of Tohoku's coastal beauty, lace up your hiking boots and embark on the Michinoku Coastal Trail. This epic trail stretches for more than 1,000km, tracing the rugged coastline of Tohoku, winding through fishing villages, past hidden coves, and along dramatic cliffs that plunge into the Pacific Ocean.

“When I first heard about this trail, I knew I had to walk it as it combines my passion for Tohoku, where parts of my family are from, with my passion for hiking”, says Robin Takashi Lewis, who created the Michinoku Trail Walker guide after walking 1,000km along Japan’s coastline.

The entire trail takes about 50 days to complete, but there are several bite-sized sections that are well-connected to major towns, making it possible to get a sample of the experience in just one day.

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“I would recommend the Tanesashi coast in Aomori. That section is beautiful, fun, and can be done in half a day,” says Robin. “For more advanced hikers I would recommend the Kitayamazaki section.”

While the Kitayamazaki section in Iwate is more remote and challenging because of steep inclines and uneven terrain, Robin swears by the phenomenal views of the cliffs that await, which many hikers regard to be the most impactful part of the trail.

From the rugged coastline, we journey inland to Morioka, the capital of Iwate Prefecture. A cosy city where tradition thrives alongside modernity. Scattered across the walkable city are charming local cafés, each with its own unique character. And flanked by traditional kissaten with nostalgic charms and modern cafés serving innovative brews, Morioka Castle Site Park awaits at the heart of the city. Though the castle itself was demolished in the 1870s, the park preserves the historical footprint of the once-grand stronghold of the Nanbu clan, offering a glimpse into the city's samurai past. Today, it is teeming with lush greenery and vistas of the surrounding cityscape. Towering over the city like its watchful guardian, the majestic peak of Mount Iwate provides a breathtaking backdrop.

Feel one with Morioka's creative spirit at the Morioka Handi-works Square where you can witness skilled artisans crafting exquisite Nambu Cast Ironware, traditional toys, Japanese sweets and other crafts. Don't miss the opportunity to participate in a workshop and create your own piece of Morioka's cultural legacy. For a taste of local culture, try (or make) a bowl of Morioka Reimen, the city's signature dish of chilled noodles served in a clear broth.

Our journey takes us further north to the serene oasis of Nyuto Onsen in Akita Prefecture, a hot spring village with a history spanning over 350 years. Nestled in a secluded valley, the collection of seven rustic hot spring inns draws unique charm. Each inn boasts its own spring source, making hot spring hopping a must-try experience. Volcanic activity enriches the groundwater with sulfur and other minerals, giving the hot springs their serene milky turquoise hue. Surrounded by snow-dusted trees in winter, you can immerse yourself in these rejuvenating waters while connecting to centuries of onsen culture.

For the adventurous, a hike up nearby Mt. Akita-Komagatake is a must-do. This active volcano, which last erupted in 1971, offers stunning alpine scenery, with meadows carpeted in wildflowers, and panoramic views of the surrounding peaks.

Our final destination is Shirakami Sanchi, a Unesco World Heritage site that straddles Aomori and Akita Prefectures. This pristine wilderness is a symphony of blue and green, with crystal-clear lakes reflecting the vibrant hues of the beech forest.

To truly appreciate the beauty of Shirakami Sanchi, take a ride on the Resort Shirakami train. This scenic railway line winds through the heart of the forest, offering breathtaking views of the landscape. On some departures, lucky passengers are treated to a unique cultural experience: live Tsugaru shamisen performances.

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Once you've arrived, explore the enchanting Juniko Twelve Lakes, each with its own unique character. The most famous is Aoike Pond, its waters a mesmerising shade of cobalt blue, thanks to the minerals dissolved in its depths. And don't miss the cascading beauty of Anmon Falls, a series of waterfalls that tumble through the verdant forest.

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